After Vienna we drove toward Linz, stopping at the beautiful gold and yellow Abbey at Melk and then, in complete contrast, at Mauthausen concentration camp. A sobering experience completely ruined by the schoolchildren running around chewing gum, laughing, giggling and eating ice-creams from the gift shop. I gave some of them laughing and playfighting in front of the photos of victims a piece of my mind in what little German I knew. The next two days we spent driving past stunning villages climbing up the mountainsides or on the side of lovely lakes, ending at Salzburg.

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