|
||||
|
most people leave their camera on auto focus, unless youre attempting something tricky like a spiders web...
can you maybe run some test shot son different settings on, say, a cup in front of you? you shouldnt get sharp shots in 'auto picture' mode if youre not in manual - its where its focusing that makes a sharp shot. is the lens clean?
__________________
read all about it!... -->http://britgirl.typepad.co.uk/ My DD gallery! I use; CS3 on my beloved iMac! I'm a Canon girl I have a 5D MRK II.
|
|
||||
|
Ok first thing to ask, is, if you are shooting in Manual mode, what shutter speed are you using ( on average) and what focal length is your lense. Something to consider is that if your shutter speed is below 1/50th, then you may experience blur from camera shake. I read somewhere that you should keep your shutter speed to double your focal length of your lense. So for example, if your using a 50mm lense on a full frame camera, then you should keep your shutter speed above 100th, getting the correct exposure by adjusting your ISO and f stop. For non full frame camera's I think you multiply by 1.8 ( ? not sure, someone might be able to correct me here).
The other thing to look at is that you havent accidently changed your focal points. This is the points where your auto focus uses to focus on. I have mine set to center so that I focus on what I want to have the strongest focus ( ie subjects eyes)looking through the center of the lense (viewfinder area) then hold the shutter half way down, recompose the shot then complete the shutter release. There are many different ways you can set these focus points ( right, left, all etc) and if you think you are focusing in the center of your lense and there is something closer of further away that falls in the actual focus point the camer is set to, it might be focusing on that instead. I hope that make sence. If not, let me know and I try explaining a bit more. Look in your manual to see how you change the focus points if you need to. I might be completely wrong with all of these suggestions
__________________
Sam _______________________ Equipment NEW - Canon EOS 5d MkII with 24 -105mm f4L IS USM + Canon 50mm 1.4 usmPCS5 on PC + Wacom Intuos 4
|
|
||||
|
Thanks Mel, Sam.. I think my prob is what you've said Sam, about shutter speed and focal length, maybe it just didnt enter my head this time around, (or maybe I just dont fully understand that aspect yet) I was sooo intent on trying to get the 'right' look, I dont think I took enough time to work that out..
I know Im going to have to practice more, but sometimes I just cant work it out... I think I'll get Katrina's book out AGAIN, 'get me off auto' to get me thinking along the correct lines.. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to give me some insight to my probs...
__________________
![]() ![]() software: PSE9 / iMAC ![]() Camera: Nikon D90 Digital SLR. 35mm 18-105mm
|
|
||||
|
Janet, you could check the EXIF data of some of your blurry photos to see if they had a longer exposure. Presuming you're on Windows you can do this by right clicking on them file and choosing "Properties". The EXIF data is on the "details" tab under the "Camera" heading.
__________________
Camera: Canon 7D and Panasonic Lumix TZ1 (point and shoot) Lenses: Tamron F2.8 28-75mm, Canon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 and Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Software: CS4.0, LightRoom 2.7, ACDSee Platform: PC My blog: snippets
|
|
||||
|
I agree with Sam and Esther, try checking your EXIF to see what you shot at. Almost no one can hand-hold a shutter speed under 1/50 or 1/40 without shake, and the longer the lens, the harder that is to do. The typical rule I use is that the shutter speed should be at least the reciprocal of the focal length (or faster). So if I'm using my 18-70 3.5/4.5, and I'm zoomed out at 70mm, I need to make sure my shutter speed is at least 1/70 or faster. If I'm at 300mm with my telephoto, I can successfully hand-hold with 1/250.
If you are going places that are unique (you can't just go right back and take more pictures), I always recommend shooting on auto for at least part of the shots. Especially when you're outside---there is no shame shooting on auto if you're not absolutely comfortable with manual. Or, if you have time, you can put your camera on auto and meter the shot (press halfway down), and look at the settings your camera will use. Say it tells you it's going to set the shutter at 1/250, f 5.6, ISO 400. A higher ISO usually means a little less crispness, and an introduction of more digital noise into your shot. So you could say, okay, I want the ISO 100, which means I'll have to have a bigger aperture, and a slower shutter speed. Then dial in your own settings. The drawback is sometimes you just can't get the effect you want hand-holding the camera. If it's dark, or the light is weird, you may not be able to get a better exposure triangle than what the camera will give you. Don't get discouraged! I still have tons of not-sharp photos. But just be sure to read your situation and do what's most comfortable for you there. You may want to practice on manual in your yard, or wandering around town or somewhere with family, but at a wedding, or on a vacation---don't hesitate or be embarrassed to keep it on auto. No one else will know but you, and getting those great shots is what's ultimately important.
__________________
Sarah ![]() Equipment: Canon T2i (550D) with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6, 55-250mm f/4-5.6, 50mm f/1.8, and 400mm f/5.6L lenses Software: Windows 7, PSE 10 (Editor), PSE 6 (Organizer), and PSCS 4 |
|
||||
|
Thanks Sarah, Esther, for instance in this main pic I posted today http://www.designerdigitals.com/digi...0/Bali_13s.jpg
the shooting data tells me Focal Length: 55mm 1/100 f/6.3 ISO 500 White Balance: Cloudy it also says on ALL of my pics Long Exposure NR: OFF What does this mean??? I still dont think this is crisp and clear, is the ISO my problem here, or the white balance as Cloudy.. (I've just noticed this as Im writing)I was trying to get more light into the shot as the area was very bright outside, but shady under the pergola.. Thanks guys, I really do appreciate your comments and help...
__________________
![]() ![]() software: PSE9 / iMAC ![]() Camera: Nikon D90 Digital SLR. 35mm 18-105mm
|
|
||||
|
Quote:
You did a great job with the light. I think the white balance looks fine. Your exposure triangle looks just fine; the focal length and the shutter speed are good. That's a small aperture and a high ISO, though; I might try to set future exposures with a bigger aperture (lower number) and lower ISO. That will help the sharpness of the shot a little bit. Otherwise, I think you're being too hard on yourself. ![]() That kind of shot---extremely backlit with subjects in the shade---is notoriously hard to do. But the light on his face is perfect, and the monkey isn't in shadow at all. I usually leave the white balance on my camera set to auto and shoot in raw so I can fix it myself, but you can also do a color cast correction in Photoshop Elements that does a good job as long as you have something pretty close to true white or true black in your shot. I use that option quite a bit.
__________________
Sarah ![]() Equipment: Canon T2i (550D) with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6, 55-250mm f/4-5.6, 50mm f/1.8, and 400mm f/5.6L lenses Software: Windows 7, PSE 10 (Editor), PSE 6 (Organizer), and PSCS 4 |
|
||||
|
Thanks Sarah, you know what, I think I will use Auto sometimes when I cannot recreate the shot, especially when on holiday and doing something special like holding the orangutan.. I have used the color cast correction before, but I didnt remember to try it this time around, I might just have a go with that and see what I get....
I think I will set my WB to auto too and see if it makes a difference.. Thanks again....
__________________
![]() ![]() software: PSE9 / iMAC ![]() Camera: Nikon D90 Digital SLR. 35mm 18-105mm
|
|
||||
|
Those photos look great on my screen. I guess you can see them in higher resolution, but maybe you're looking at them too hard? Love your page!!
If my subject is in shade I use the exposure compensation to over expose one or two stops rather than using the white balance. I don't change the white balance off auto, either! I'll learn more about it one day
__________________
Camera: Canon 7D and Panasonic Lumix TZ1 (point and shoot) Lenses: Tamron F2.8 28-75mm, Canon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 and Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Software: CS4.0, LightRoom 2.7, ACDSee Platform: PC My blog: snippets
|
|
||||
|
Janet, I agree with what Sarah said about using Auto. I can use manual, I can normally get a good shot when I do, but alot of time I still leave my camera on auto. I figure I paid a lot of money for the technology that went into the production of the camera and it often knows better than me quicker. I will shoot maunal when I am in my studio and I have a very controlled situation, but on holidays or just taking pics of Ben at the park or other everyday situations, I use auto. Sometimes I play around with metering modes and stuff while on auto, and I figure I edit in lightroom and PS so I can make the shots different to sooc anyway. Most of the time, capturing the memory is more important to me than the technical stuff.
__________________
Sam _______________________ Equipment NEW - Canon EOS 5d MkII with 24 -105mm f4L IS USM + Canon 50mm 1.4 usmPCS5 on PC + Wacom Intuos 4
|
|
|||
|
Janet I am just learning about exposure triangle so don't have any advice but I think your pictures are awesome. It is funny the different levels we are at. You look at your photos think they could be better. I look at them and would be thrilled if mine turned out that good. Beauty is indeed in the eye of the beholder.
|
|
||||
|
I absolutely cannot thank you guys enough for all of your input... I realise now after reading your comments (especially you Sam) that it IS OK to leave my camera on 'Auto', I was so dissappointed thinking that I cant master this 'Manual' stuff, and refused to go back to 'Auto', I felt such a failure, but you are absolutely right in saying Sam, capturing the memory is more important than the technical stuff..
I will still practice off auto, and hopefully one day be able to automatically twist the dials to exactly the right spot to capture clear and crisp shots I so want. thank you thank you thank you....
__________________
![]() ![]() software: PSE9 / iMAC ![]() Camera: Nikon D90 Digital SLR. 35mm 18-105mm
|
|
||||
|
Quote:
__________________
![]() ![]() software: PSE9 / iMAC ![]() Camera: Nikon D90 Digital SLR. 35mm 18-105mm
|
|
||||
|
i use auto alot (eeeek!)... most of the time I set it to Aperture Priority mode unless i have time to really compose my shot (like i still shot or something).
my white balance is ALWAYS on auto... i have a D700 and there are all these fancy ways of setting the WB... eh... i just import them into Lightroom and batch correct them... awesome you got a chance to visit Bali! I've always wanted to go but I don't think they've lifted the restriction for Active Duty Military yet. I can go, just not hubby.... hmmm.... not such a bad idea.... lol! |
|
||||
|
Quote:
] D70 more often..I checked out your blog, your photos of your little man are divine, just gorgeous.. so clear, crisp and bright... brilliant
__________________
![]() ![]() software: PSE9 / iMAC ![]() Camera: Nikon D90 Digital SLR. 35mm 18-105mm
|
|
||||
|
I shoot most of my photos on auto... Especially on vacation and weddings and stuff...
I play with different modes or fully manual when I have plenty of time - like shooting our own garden and stuff like that. This is why I LOVE Lightroom!!! I never use a photo in a LO anymore without working with it in LR!
__________________
Thess My Gallery My Blog My Cameras: Canon Rebel XSi and Canon 50D, Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ20 |
|
||||
|
Janet, you should not be embarrassed about using a Nikon D70. The lens is more important than the camera. And the photographer is more important than the lens OR the camera. You would know your camera very well by now - like a best friend. My camera is the very cheapest bottom-of-the-pile Canon DSLR and I've been on photoshoots with people with much, much better cameras and I've seen first hand that the camera body is only one part of the story - and it has been very reassuring and I have continued to use my camera with confidence. I've also seen on flickr amazing shots that people take with point&shoot cameras.
I also love to fix up my blunders in Lightroom. I don't use it all the time but it can work miracles
__________________
Camera: Canon 7D and Panasonic Lumix TZ1 (point and shoot) Lenses: Tamron F2.8 28-75mm, Canon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 and Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Software: CS4.0, LightRoom 2.7, ACDSee Platform: PC My blog: snippets
|
|
||||
|
I'm also feeling a little less useless after reading this thread, and I thank all you fab photographers for all your patient advice. KK gave us a real great foundation in Get Me Off Auto and I've been trying like crazy to work at it, and I think I'm getting a little better at it...but a long way to go. I just found out that there is a ring that turns around the lens barrel on the forward part of my 70-300 Nikkor that brings the focus in sharper. Was I supposed to know about that???
__________________
My Equipment: Nikon D90 Lenses:Nikkor AF-S 50mm/1.4 G Nikkor AF-S 18-105 DX VR (soon ) Nikkor AF-S 18-200 DX VR ll![]()
|
|
||||
|
Lightroom's primary purpose is to correct and edit raw images. You can get much better correction from the raw image data in LR than by editing the compressed jpg version in PSE. On the left you have a list of presets (actions) you can use to correct photos, on the right you have all the individual settings you can use to fine tune the correction. In particular it is brilliant at adjusting the exposure up or down. You'd never know your shot was under or over exposed! I also use it to auto adjust the white balance - it does that much better than PSE and there are a variety or auto white balance presets, so you can try them all to see which one works best on your photo and then fine tune. There are adjustments for noise and sharpness and all of the color channels and color curves, vignettes, saturation, etc, etc similar to photoshop but better.
And then on top of that there are all the presets for b&w and sepia and all sorts of vintage and aged photos and all the amazing fun ones to give interesting effects to photos. And that's just the beginning. Many people use it to tag and store their photos but I haven't got to that yet!
__________________
Camera: Canon 7D and Panasonic Lumix TZ1 (point and shoot) Lenses: Tamron F2.8 28-75mm, Canon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 and Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Software: CS4.0, LightRoom 2.7, ACDSee Platform: PC My blog: snippets
|
|
||||
|
OMG Esther.. this sounds amazing.. I really want it now.. I mean N.O.W...... but, I really want to upgrade my camera, so priorities first... CAMERA!
My hubby knows I want the D7000, and he's talking about buying it this weekend... Im trying not to go overboard with excitement, and saying to him, I dont need it right now, I'll wait until xmas or my birthday and xmas combined.. my birthday is 28th Nov, so close enough to combine with xmas present dont you think... Oh this brings me to a lens question Esther.. I was reading everyones comments in the lens thread asked by PaulaSG.. are you saying the lens that comes with a new camera, are NOT as good as when you buy it separately, or am I misunderstanding...
__________________
![]() ![]() software: PSE9 / iMAC ![]() Camera: Nikon D90 Digital SLR. 35mm 18-105mm
|
|
||||
|
You get what you pay for. For example, the Canon 600D - let's say the camera body is worth $1000, with one kit lens (Canon EF-S 18-135mm Lens) it is $1300. So for the extra $300 you get a lens worth $439 which is good value if that $439 lens is the one you want. In my case, I got a 1000D twin kit for $900 - that is camera, macro lens and zoom lens. So of course the lenses aren't going to be much chop. The macro lens is OK, but the zoom is hopeless - in fact you can buy it separately for $200. You're not going to get much of a zoom lens at that price. I think $2000 might be closer to the mark! It is easy enough to look up the value of the lenses on their own online and to look at reviews of them at Digital Cameras: Digital Photography Review, News, Reviews, Forums, FAQ.
But for all that, I'm not a lens expert! I've played with a few, but I've never spent more than $600 on a lens! I just look at everyone else's and go add them to my wish list at bhphotovideo! And then I put photos into Pioneer Woman's competitions in the hope of winning a voucher
__________________
Camera: Canon 7D and Panasonic Lumix TZ1 (point and shoot) Lenses: Tamron F2.8 28-75mm, Canon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 and Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Software: CS4.0, LightRoom 2.7, ACDSee Platform: PC My blog: snippets
|
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|