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If I have my camera set to use the center frame for focusing, am I correct that when focusing but want my subject off-center I use the frame to focus my subject pressing the shutter button halfway then while holding it, I can move the camera to reposition my subject off center, then snap the picture? That will keep the subject in focus?
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Camera: Canon powershot A530 Software: Adobe photoshop 7.0 Duct tape is like the force. It has a light side, a dark side, and it keeps the world together. |
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Although I read an article saying that because of the angles changing etc when you do that, you won't get a dead on focus. It will be focusing a little bit in front of or behind your actual subject. Not much, but be aware of this if you don't get the focus right. I always change my focus points.
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-call me anx -My Gallery My toys: Canon 40D, Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS, Canon 100 mm f/2.8 macro, Sigma 50 mm f/1.4, Sigma 24-70 f/2.8 MacbookPro with Lightroom 3, Adobe CS5 Design Premium ![]() |
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Thanks.
Focus points? Well, I've learned in the last couple of days I can't get a good background blur/shallow depth of field with my camera. My aperture only goes down to 2.6
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Camera: Canon powershot A530 Software: Adobe photoshop 7.0 Duct tape is like the force. It has a light side, a dark side, and it keeps the world together. |
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I think aperture is only part of the deal with shallow depth of field/blur. A long focal length will give you less DOF than a short focal length on the same aperture. Try taking two photos with your camera, one with focal length 18 mm and one with 50 mm, both with aperture set to 2.6. You will see a big difference in your depth of field! Also, the closer you are to your subject, means shallow(er) depth of field or more blur.
In short: To get shallow DOF/background blur: Telephoto lens, wide aperture, close to your subject, subject far away from background. Those factors all add up. Opposite: Great DOF/less background blur: Wide angle lens, small aperture, stand far away from your subject, put subject close to background. One of my favorite lenses for portraits (ok I only have two lenses, so they are both my favorites) is my 70-200 f/2.8. It "only" goes to 2.8, but because it's a telephoto, it gives me the blur I want. Hope that helps. ![]() Oops. Didn't see that you don't have a DSLR. But the rules still apply. Zoom in and get close to your subject, and place the subject far away from the background to get that blur. I'm sure Katrina can explain this better than me... Sorry if I'm not making sense.
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-call me anx -My Gallery My toys: Canon 40D, Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS, Canon 100 mm f/2.8 macro, Sigma 50 mm f/1.4, Sigma 24-70 f/2.8 MacbookPro with Lightroom 3, Adobe CS5 Design Premium ![]() |
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Attachment 626
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![]() (Oh, none of this is to contradict Katrina's post. There really is a difference between what you can get with a P&S and a high-end dSLR, but I'm just trying to encourage you not to give up with it. You can do a lot more than you may think! Of course, "bokeh" is a hugely contested and thoroughly argued topic amongst photographers; everyone has their own feel, their own way to achieve it, and you have to work with your particular camera. That's what makes photography so personal, individual, and unique!) This is still one of my favorite photos, even compared with all my dSLR pictures. I took it with my S5100 P&S (ZLR) at 57mm, f5. Much more narrow DOF than you'd expect with such a small aperture, but I was about 15 feet away and I zoomed in. You can have lots of fun, and accomplish a lot artistically with a P&S. Have fun with it!!! And I recommend Katrina's book, too. It is useful no matter what your equipment.
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Sarah ![]() Equipment: Canon T2i (550D) with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6, 55-250mm f/4-5.6, 50mm f/1.8, and 400mm f/5.6L lenses Software: Windows 7, PSE 6.0 (Editor and Organizer), and PSCS 4 |
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