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I know I haven't been very active lately, I've been so busy with the new baby, and an attention needy toddler LOL!
I got a new camera for Xmas, the Canon 50D and I still learning to use it, but am in love with it! So I decided I wanted to set up a lil studio in my house, and purchase some studio lights, 2X3 soft box, backdrops, the whole shabang! The problem I am having is that I dont know if I'm cray, but the one light seems funny (I have two lights, one for the background and one in the softbox) So I set my camera on manual, and go from there.... The flash on my camera sets off the strobes, yes...then it seems like the one for the background doesnt go off? When I cover the flash on my camera, then it seems to go off, and blow it out with too much light! UGH I think I'm totally over my head, and I think I need some direction...if anyone is willing to help a newbie! Ppppllllleeeeaaaasssse!
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The lights are Lumahawk's the XL300ws.
I am using one to light the background, (I purchased the pink like yours!!) and the other one with the soft box I switched the two lights around, and I'm really wondering if the one isn't working properly, and its really NOT me. What distance and hight do you usually position your background light? Sooo many questions, I think I'm going to need to take a course! Thanks for any help!
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oops sorry, I have no light meter yet....
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Okay, I am no expert, but I have a Canon 50D and an Alien Bee 800. My AB800 has a regular lightbulb as the model light and it has something to do if you are using a shoemount flash and it gets pointed at that bulb it will strobe, flicker, etc. Just don't point it at it. However, with the 50D you can just plug directly into the studio flash so I don't have this problem.
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Camera: Canon 50D, and Digital Rebel XTI Lenses: 50mm 1.2 (Canon), 28-135mm (Canon), 50mm 1.8 (Canon), 18-55mm (Canon), 75-300mm (Sigma) Software: Photoshop CS4 Flash: Alien Bee B800 x2, Canon 580EXII, Oh, and a pretty pink Jill-E bag! |
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congrats on the new gear! First of all, you will need to get a lightmeter for yourself. I recommend a Sekonic (it's the kind I have), but there are many good brands. You will need the lightmeter to ensure that you are setting your aperture correctly so you don't over/under expose your photos.
I would also recommend NOT using your pop-up flash to trigger the lights. Sometimes you can get weird additional shadows you don't want. Also, some cameras (in some modes) fire a "pre-flash" to obtain exposure information before the main flash. This is indistinguishable to the viewer, but it can trick the strobe lights to fire early, and not when the shutter is actually open. I don't know if your camera does this, but you can check the manual to read about your flash. Instead of using the flash to trigger the lights, I feel that it's best to use a cable or a remote control device. If there is no port on your camera to accept a trigger cable (which goes from the camera directly to the main strobe light itself), you can buy something called a Wein Safe Sync device. This is a small gadget that slides into the hotshoe on top of your camera; it has a hole in which to plug the cable and then the other end of the cable goes directly into the "main" strobe light. And then, of course, the light from the first strobe triggers the 2nd strobe to go off. You may want to get this ANYWAY, because it has a circuit that can protect your camera from excessive voltage. Although modern strobe lights are supposed to work at less than 5V, and will NOT cause over-voltage situations, I always feel "better safe than sorry", kwim? Many strobe lights have a feature where you might have to depress or press a button to ensure that the light IS getting triggered by the flash or the cable. Check your manual to ensure that your strobe is configured correctly to trigger off your camera flash, since that's what you're currently using. Also, since the light from the FIRST strobe is the signal that triggers the SECOND strobe to fire, even if you're using a cable to trigger the FIRST strobe, the 2nd strobe has to "see" the light from the first strobe. Make sure nothing is blocking the sensor area, or that it's not pointed in some strange direction. Also, are you SURE the strobe isn't going off? Sometimes it's really hard to tell unless you're looking directly at it. Also, make sure that the shutter speed you use is not faster than the sync speed of your camera. On most cameras, the maximum shutter speed you can use with strobes is 1/250 of a second, although some can go higher. There are some great books & websites you can go to for more detailed info. I will see if I can find some of my faves & post them in a 2nd message. good luck! Having your own studio is AWESOME and I'm sure you'll love it once you get some practice & a lightmeter. ![]() Jennifer |
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Thanks so much for all the advice, although it has been so busy around here, I havent had much of a chance to try or play and see what happens to the light (UGH..)
I am on the lookout for a light meter, and hoping I can possibly find a used one in great shape My softbox finally came today, and they sent me the wrong speedring, so I'm pretty upset, cause now its going to take what seems like forever, as I watch my new baby grow before my eyes! LOL!! I do have a sync cable from the lights to my camera, but from what it seems, I need the flash from my camera to still set it off. I found better results from just the pop up VS the external. I will keep trying when I finally find some time, but thank you ladies for all your help.. Here are a couple of pics that I did on my first try, feel free to give any advice! Thanks!
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These are beautiful! Love the chandelier
Perhaps you need some sort of reflector on the right side....as Kim has in this thread
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Melissa My gear: I have no gear...I sold all my Canon gear, now I'm thinking of getting a Nikon. Software: PSE5 My slow growing gallery (don't laugh..I'm getting there...lol) ![]()
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I've used my pop up flash to trigger my strobe before I got my radio triggers. And I use the pop-up in commander mode to trigger my external flash when I use it off camera. Just make sure you go in on your camera menu and dial it down as low as it will go (I think mine goes down to like 1/125 power or something like that). That way it isn't really giving much light that it would effect exposure.
I'd really suggest working with one light to start. I still prefer most times shooting with one light and a reflector. Bring your light in close to your subject. Really close. I know it may seem like the closer you bring it, the harsher the light, but if it's in a softbox, the closer it gets to your subject, the softer and more spread out the light is. The further away, the more harsh the light is. My most used settings are with my strobe (AB 800) on 1/16 power in a 50x50 softbox, shutter at 1/125 and aperture at 5.6. Start there, check your histogram, if you need more light, open up your aperture a bit. Too much light, close down. Your shutter will stay the same, it really has no effect on your overall exposure with strobes. Using a light meter takes all the guess work out of it though.
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