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I have spent the last week admiring the wonderful double page layouts in the gallery and especially the travel layouts of Denise Gormish and EarlofOxford. I have decided to put together my own travel book and spent all yesterday deciding on fonts/colouring etc. I will definitely be scraplifting from these amazing ladies. I have purchased some templates but need some advice on scrapping double pages.
Do you scrap onto a 24 x 12 page or do you create each page individually. If so how do you match photos etc. I don't want elements across pages as that would be just too ambitious. Also any other hints???? I have never tried to co-ordinate pages before and am finding it very time consuming.. Any suggestions greatly appreciated....
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Carolyn Blog: House of Amson My Camera: Nikon D300 Lenses Include: Nikon 18-200, Nikon 50 mm 1.8 and 1.4, Tokina Macro 100mm 2.8, Tokina 11-16mm 2.8 (newest indulgence) |
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Double pages do look great in an album. I like to use them, especially for event layouts.
I usually start with a 24 x 12 canvas. I set a gridline to show at the 12" mark so I can see where the split of the two pages would be. Once I am down I can "cut"it into two pages. But you can equally set up two 12" x 12" canvases and work on them side by side, especially if you have a big screen. I have Scrap Express two page templates in the store. Jen's trick of flipping a template for the second side is a great idea too! |
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1. Flatten the layout, and drag a 12X12 square selection with the marquee tool over the left side 2. Click CTRL+C to copy 3. CTRL+ALT+N for a new document, make it 3600X3600, 300ppi. 4. CTRL+V to paste. Then save it as "Whatever Left Page," or however you want to name it. Repeat the process for the right side. You can save the flattened JPEG if you want to, or just click "No" to Save Changes? when you close. I work exclusively in 24X12 and have elements going across the gutter (center of the page) all the time. You just need to keep in mind that you will lose approximately 1/4" on the inside edge of each layout (the side that will be in the binding of the book) to the gutter; the books don't lay flat. So I make sure I don't put faces or journaling in that space. HTH!
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Sarah ![]() Equipment: Canon T2i (550D) with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6, 55-250mm f/4-5.6, 50mm f/1.8, and 400mm f/5.6L lenses Software: Windows 7, PSE 10 (Editor), PSE 6 (Organizer), and PSCS 4 |
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Thanks so much for all the help. I used the pen tool to draw a line down the centre in PSP so I could work out where the page centre was. I'll just delete this layer at the end. I know I will get used to the larger page but it sure is difficult to start with.
The difficult part is using a single page template as I can't drop all the layers at once into my large page. So I am doing it layer by layer and adjusting position after each move as it is dropped in the centre of the page. I'll definitely be looking at some of those double page templats.
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Carolyn Blog: House of Amson My Camera: Nikon D300 Lenses Include: Nikon 18-200, Nikon 50 mm 1.8 and 1.4, Tokina Macro 100mm 2.8, Tokina 11-16mm 2.8 (newest indulgence) |
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![]() ![]() My Camera - Canon 50D - soon to own 5D Mark III ![]() My Lenses - 50mm 1.2, 70-200mm f4, 24-70mm 2.8, 100mm 2.8 My Software - Photoshop CS5, Lightroom 3 |
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I usually just work on two 12 x 12 canvases side by side. they don't quite fit on the screen but it works. I do the 24 x 12 when I have something that is going to overlap both pages to make sure it lines up and is where I want it.
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![]() My software: PSE10 on my beloved pc My gear: Canon t3; fujifilm finepix Z20 |
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I usually work with two 12x12 pages open in my work space. And like Jen, I frequently just flip a template to make it match the other page. If you have elements that will flow from one page to another, you could work in a 12x24 canvas and divide it when you're finished and ready to print.
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Linda My gear: Nikon D700; 24-70mm 2.8; 70-200mm 2.8; 105mm 2.8; 50mm 1.4; 150-500mm 5-6.3 My software: CS5 on a PC; Lightroom 2; ACDSee 12
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